Dining in Tokyo/Asakusa

Tokyo

Phone: 03-6427-2314
Email: info.sueyoshi@gmail.com

Website: http://isesueyoshi.blog.fc2.com/
Address: 4-2-15 Nishiazabu, Mizuno Bldg. 3F, Minato-ku, Tokyo 106-0031

Reservations: the Japanese website has the “reservation” button in English. This passes you to an English language reservation page.

Price: 22K Yen. Upcharge of 2K Yen for special meals: vegan, vegetarian, Muslim, gluten-free.

Meal Type: Traditional Kaiseki
**Though we had the traditional, we were excited to see that this restaurant actively welcomes gluten free, vegan, vegetarian and Muslim meals. They also had a section on the reservation form to describe a dietary need that didn’t fit neatly in those categories.

Notes: fabulous meal and one of the best sake pairings we’ve ever had. The chef is from Mie, which is kind of near Kyoto, and sources all of his ingredients from there. This is a tiny restaurant with 5 seats and 2 seatings per night. Reservations are a must. Every dish was a winner and 2 standouts were fish shabu shabu, the best tuna we’ve ever had, and some great desserts.

Website: https://nol.jp/

Address: 日本橋馬喰町2-2-1 1F, 中央区, 東京都, JP, 103-0002

Reservations: on their site, in English

Meal Type: Michelin-starred innovative Japanese cuisine with an emphasis on connection to nature and sustainability.

Notes: We have been fortunate to experience many wonderful high-end set meal food experiences. When choosing a Michelin-starred or similarly priced place, we hope for something that will surprise us and will accommodate food sensitivities with creativity.

Nol did not disappoint. All the dishes were winners in overall taste, presentation, and flavor pairings. The big impression we got from this chef is the flavors tended to be subtle and the mix of flavors sometimes surprising and always well-matched. The strongest flavor served was a blue cheese ice cream (which was amazing). The best thing we learned was about a spice from the amber cork tree. The dried berries of this tree are the staple diet of Japanese deer, especially in the Hokkaido region, and the chef used the ground spice to flavor a venison dish. He brought the spice out to us and we asked if we could try it. It tastes like orange rind and juniper. When we asked if it was possible to buy it anywhere in the country, the chef said no, he has a friend forage and send it to him, but he prepared a little packet for me to take home as a present. At the end of the evening, we got a tour of the kitchen.

We went in February and there were a total of 4 people dining the whole evening, including the 2 of us. They said winter is very slow.

Lots of personal attention from the chef who explained many of the dishes himself as they were served.

3F Roppongi Green bldg. Roppongi6-1-8, Minato-ku, Tokyo, Japan

Website: https://www.sougo.tokyo/
Reservations: on their website, using OpenTable

Meal Type: Shojin Ryori

We’ve had wonderful shojin ryori at a temple in Koya-san and so sought out shojin ryori in town. Sougo was ok. Not all of the flavors or combos hit, and it seemed a little expensive for what it was. However, if you are vegetarian or vegan I’d say it’s worth it (unless you are also gluten free, in which case I don’t think this is going to work.) The restaurant had a huge party of Europeans during lunch when we went. They were loud (like normal loud for Europe and the USA but seems very out of place in Japan).

Address: 東京都千代田区内幸町1-7-1G24
100-0011 Tokyo, Chiyoda City, Uchisaiwaichō, 1-chōme−7−１日比谷OKUROJI G24

Reservations: through their site for any of their three restaurants. When the reservation form came up, Google translate would not work on my computer, so I used my phone to translate the computer screen.

All the reviews we read about this place describe it as “high-end sushi for medium price” and we found that to be true. This was EXCELLENT sushi and a great omakase experience

Tsukiji Market Choices

We were staying in Asakusa, but still jet-lagged so waking early. This made a trip to Tsukiji for breakfast a great option, which we repeated. We’d been to Tsukiji on a trip many years ago, with our young children, and at that time the fish auction was located here too. The auction has relocated but many sellers remain. The effect is much less hectic; in the old days you would get mowed down by carts of fish shuttling to and fro. Now it is more like a regular outdoor market. There are big lines at some restaurants once the tourists arrive, but most shops have plenty of space and attention for you to try their freshly shaved bonito, and peruse the kitchenwares, pickled and fresh items.

Don–stuff on rice

You can order lots of foods “don” meaning on top of rice. In the fish market, your favorite fish is available “don” or as sashimi or grilled. We wanted some great fish-on-rice for breakfast so headed to Tsukiji market.

Location: 4-chōme-9-5 Tsukiji, Chuo City, Tokyo 104-0045

web address: tsukiji-marukita.com

phonte: +81 3-3543-5228

They have an outpost “1” and “2” directly across from each other in their small street. At 7:30 am, we were the first to take seats, but the place was half full on both sides by 7:45 and by 9 am the market had lines at many popular vendors.

We both were craving uni. Dan picked uni and maguro tuna-don, and I had uni and hotate scallops, plus a serving of miso soup for each of us and (complementary) hot tea. The fish was superb, so sweet and fresh, which is what one hopes for in Tsukiji even though the actual fish auction is not located here anymore. We highly recommend this place, and that you get here before the tourists arrive. We made it a destination on our first day, figuring jet lag would have us up early anyway (which it did). Bonus: the subway is also much less crowded before 8 am. I also liked their miso soup.

Second don restaurant (#2 is across the street)

We went back to compare the goods-for-price at a similar restaurant just across from Marukita down a small alley, with cute little private booths. Perhaps their fish would be just as good for less yen? No, the fish was pretty darn good, but not as good and the amount was less, so the smaller price was in line.

Location: 4-chōme-10-10 Tsukiji, Chuo City, Tokyo 104-0045 (at the intersection of Namiyake-dori and the Tsukiji Market)

website: https://www.tsukiji-marutake.com/

There are several places selling tamago, the rolled egg dish. While many looked good, only one spot was serving it hot. For about $1 a stick, this tamago was a good deal. It was not only hot but just the right sweetness and with a nice dashi flavor. The lines for this place were large by 9am, but moved quickly.

Just around the corner from the tamago spot Dan found amazake!

Not sure if this place is open year-round or only in winter when we visited, but we love amazake and were happy to see this vendor. 300 yen, or about $2 for a hot cup of brew. Amazake is not alcoholic but is made from leftover rice post-sake production. Usually, sugar is added, and sometimes ginger and other flavorings. This one was rather plain, though sweet, and I was thrilled to find it on our cold morning. (photo above right) Generally, amazake can be found in 2 types: ones made from any old rice and ones made from the leftover mash from making sake. We prefer the latter, as it has a deeper flavor, but I enjoy both.

Asakusa Choices

Location: 1-chōme-41-1 Asakusa, Taito City, Tokyo 111-0032

phone: +81 3-3841-5802

Open from 10:30 to 10 or 11 pm at night, this is a great choice if you are feeling like tempura. Asakusa has its own tempura style where they dip the finished tempura into a shoyu-based sauce. (Other types of tempura are usually served to you with a side sauce for you to dip on your own.) This restaurant is apparently very well known as one of the best for this type of tempura, and often very busy. They recently expanded their hours to dinner time, and Google had not caught up with that news yet. Perhaps that’s why we had the place to ourselves for dinner on a Tuesday night.

All of the fish was prepared perfectly: shrimp; kakiage stuffed with scallops, shrimp, and fish; and whitefish. The eggplant was only ok but made me feel a little healthy. We recommend the Ten-don set which has a little of everything, paired with a beer. Our total bill was 59000 Yen, or $45, of which $9 was for 2 beers.

Address: 〒111-0032 Tokyo, Taito City, Asakusa, 1 Chome−35−9 ザグローヴ

This is a specialty of the Asakusa region. We happened into one and are glad we did. Manjoyaki is a bunch of cabbage, a very thin flour-based liquid (thinner than what is used for a pancake for example) and toppings of choice. The first item on the menu’s list is for a pork-based one, using ground pork, and we think the folks next to us had that. It looked good. We had fish roe which was a good choice. Use Google translate on the menu to see the available toppings, or just use the words you know because everything is available either as a standard item or as an extra topping. They serve okonomiyaki too, which is a dish we are familiar with and make at home. It was ok; we found the sauce they use not as good as the one we are used to. So we’d recommend sticking with the manjoyaki and other appetizers instead.
In the snapshots below you can see some of the translated menu and videos of them making our food.

Address: 1 Chome-28-1 Asakusa, 台東区 Taito City, Tokyo 111-0032
or: 〒101-0021 Tokyo, Chiyoda City, Sotokanda, 6 Chome−3−6 大石ビル

or Website and other locations for this chain: https://www.taiyaki.co.jp/shop/

You can find taiyaki all over Japan, and we suggest you do! This spot in Asakusa made an excellent version with choices of fillings custard, sweet potato, and red bean (the standards). All were very hot, which was so nice in February to hold a hot fish. Compared to other taiyaki places, we think Naruto has the edge on the bun part. It’s just the right combination of toasted outside and soft inside. They are a chain, so you don’t need to limit yourself to the Asakusa location (or to Tokyo).

Tik Tok made me try the fluffy pancakes at Flippers. The fluffy pancakes are good, but not worth waiting in line for and there are plenty of other places across Japan that serve this kind of souffle pancake. The toppings at Flippers sounded good but just weren’t amazing. The maple chicken and egg stack was especially disappointing.

If you must venture to Flippers because Tik Tok also convinced you, I recommend getting a sandwich to go –there was no line for this when we were there.

Other Food Categories: Breakfast

Type: Obanzai breakfast set

Location: 108 Nishirokkakucho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto, 604-8217

Website: kyoto-imari.com

See the review above with other dinner/lunch spots. This was the best Japanese breakfast we had during our stay. Even if you are staying across town, you can breakfast here and still have plenty of time to cross town for any temple, garden or shopping you want to do--especially since most sites and shops in Japan don't open until 10 or 11.

Location: 13 Katsukyoyamacho, 下京区 Kyoto, 604-8224, Japan

Type: Japanese cafeteria breakfast

This place is open early; many similar places are only 11 am through dinner.

Food is identified in English and Japanese and you select your own dishes, cafeteria style.

The food we selected was tasty: pickled mackerel, sesame okra, stewed eggplant, and burdock salad. The steamed spinach was very plain. I added the sauce from my eggplant and that was perfect. We also got 2 large dishes: stewed mackerel, which was tasty but had many bones, and hot pot, which was tasty but a tepid temperature. I selected a tofu triangle and a boiled egg. One could also pick wheat gluten and potato.
Tea is free. They also have empty dishes available near the utensils to make it easy to share (with children, but could be used by anyone.)

The total bill for our 7 small + 2 large dishes and 1 rice was 1850 yen, or about $15 for 2 people

While items could be hotter the overall taste is good and this place does a good job of being what it is: a cafeteria casual dining Japanese breakfast place. It's not my top choice for Japanese breakfast in Kyoto, but it is the easiest and probably the cheapest, and it's good food.

Other Food Categories: Snacks

Type: macha and cloud cake snacks

Location: 3-317, Irishimizu, Sannen-zaka Matsubara, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto (on the approach to Kiyomizu-dera)

The place is infinitely instagramable. If you can't snag a spot at the front table with its moss garden and mister, head upstairs where there are 2 other mossy spots.

But this is more than a place for those who've rented kimonos to take great pictures with their food. The hot matcha latte was excellent and the little cloud cakes--we tried matchs and the seasonal strawberry--were both great. Strawberry was sweet but not too sweet, and the matcha one with bean filling was mildly sweet.

Another winter treat which can also be found year-round if you know where to look. Amazake is traditionally made from sake lees--the leftovers after one makes sake. It's blended with water and often sugar and sometimes ginger or other flavors. The ones made from sake lees have a deep flavor of the sake without being alcoholic. Other amazake, just made from regular rice, is comforting, though not as complex.

These usually fish-shaped sweets are found all over Japan, sometimes in other shapes, and generally come in bean, custard, sweet potato, and matcha filling.

The best in our opinion are from Naruto (604-8036 Kyoto, Nakagyo Ward, Ishibashicho, 6 寺町東入6. This is in Nishiki Market) and have a crispy outside and soft inside. Naruto Taiyaki branches can also be found in Tokyo (e.g., Asakusa ward) as well as many other big cities. Most other taiyaki are more like eating an American pancake sandwich with the fillings mentioned.

Call

123-456-7890

info@mysite.com